Wash and dry produce.

Trim and halve cucumber lengthwise; cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick half-moons. Trim and thinly slice scallions, separating whites from greens. Peel and mince or grate ginger. Peel and mince or grate garlic.

In a medium bowl, combine cucumber, scallion greens, vinegar, sesame seeds, ½ tsp sugar (1 tsp for 4 servings), and a big pinch of salt. Set aside, stirring occasionally, until ready to serve.

In a large bowl, combine pork*, ginger, garlic, scallion whites, cornstarch, half the soy sauce, half the sesame oil, 2 tsp sugar (4 tsp for 4 servings), and a big pinch of salt (we used ¼ tsp, ½ tsp for 4).

On a large, clean work surface, working one at a time, add 1 TBSP filling to the center of each wonton wrapper, leaving a ¼-inch border around the edges. TIP: Cover filled wontons and remaining wrappers with a damp paper towel as you work to keep them from drying out.

Lightly brush edges with water using your fingers. Bring two opposite corners together; pinch to seal. Repeat with remaining corners to form wontons. (Save any remaining filling for a stir-fry!)

Heat a large drizzle of oil in a large, preferably nonstick, pan over medium heat. Add wontons, sealed sides up. Cook until bottoms are golden brown, 1-2 minutes.

Carefully add ¾ cup water, then cover with a tight-fitting lid. Steam until water has evaporated and wontons are cooked through, 6-7 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook wontons in batches, adding another large drizzle of oil and ¾ cup water between batches.)

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together remaining sesame oil and as much remaining soy sauce as you like (we used 1½ TBSP; 3 TBSP for 4 servings).

Divide wontons and cucumber salad between plates. Serve with dipping sauce on the side.